Natty: March 2025
Clos Tue Bœuf
Sauv Blanc
Loire Valley
Since the Middle Ages, there have been records about the lieu-dit “le Tue-Boeuf” and its excellent wines which were enjoyed by the local nobility and the kings of France; the family name Puzelat is mentioned in 15th century documents. History, though, is not the story here. It’s about two brothers, Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat, who tend their 10-hectare family estate in Les Montils (part of the Cheverny AOC) and rent four hectares in a village nearby to produce AOC Touraine.
Clos du Tue-Boeuf, along with Marcel Richaud, Dard and Ribo, Yvon Metras and a handful of others were at the heart of the nascent natty wine movement in mid-90's Paris. They are undoubtedly the impetus for spreading this philosophy in the Loire, which remains a hotbed of the style to this day. As Hervé Villemade, himself part of the the second wave of natural winemakers in the late 90's, puts it: "What really made me start to believe I could make wines in this style were Thierry Puzelat's.
Pairing: Homemade Shake & Bake
Fun fact: The Loire Valley has become home to several Natty wine dance clubs that are the envy of Berlin, Paris, and NYC.
Les Vins de la Madone
Gamay
Loire Valley
If we’re going to talk about wines produced from 11 hectares of vineyards on and around a volcano, then we're going to talk about terroir. In fact, when the wines are named after the extinct volcano that lovingly watches over those vineyards we are essentially being led by the hand into a discussion about minerality. Gilles Bonnefoy’s biodynamic vineyards are situated in what is starting to be marketed as the “Volcanic Loire.” At the upstream end of the Loire Valley, in the appellation of Côtes du Forez, you will find Champdieu, the heart of the highest-altitude vineyards on the river.
Along with the obvious unique notes of minerality, Bonnefoy’s red wines radiate energy with red and black fruit ripeness, refreshing acidity, subtle savory notes and intense, lip-smacking joy. Think fleshy Beaujolais with a cool, stony edge.
Pairing: Burger Seoul
Fun fact: Cotes du Forez is sitting on the most recently active volcano in France.
Domaine Pecheur
Pinot Blend
Jura
Domaine Pêcheur began producing wine in 1976 from a single hectare of vineyards.
Located in Darbonnay, in the Cotes du Jura appellation, the domaine is owned by Christian and Patricia Pêcheur who, since its inception, have worked diligently to improve and expand production of classic Jura wines. The vineyards are planted to the classic Jura mix of grape types: Chardonnay, Savagnin, Ploussard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. The average age of the vineyards varies from between 35 to 50 years, which is to say, the Pêcheur family is working almost exclusively with old vines.
Neither pesticides nor herbicides are utilized. The grapes are hand-harvested then aged in small, ancient oak barrels for as long as they need.
Here we have a blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Ploussard. The holy trinity of red grapes in the Jura provide a wine of distinct freshness as well as one that as a wild streak about it.
Pairing: Sheet-Pan Harissa Salmon With Potatoes and Citrus
Fun fact: Jura is much like Montana: there are more cows than humans!