Natty: May 2025
Anima Mundi
Gres
Xarel-lo
Penedès
There is something unique about the terruño of Penedès and Agustí Torello Roca is on a quest to showcase it. Through single parcels and the most respectful of farming and winemaking, Agustí is here to reveal the soul of the Alt Penedès.
Gres is from vineyards of Xarel-lo planted between 1956 and 1974 in Sant Sebastià dels Gorgs in the Alt Penedès. The soils are highly calcareous, but feature a remarkable amount of sandstone as well, and are cultivated according to organic and biodynamic principles. The grapes were harvested by hand and pressed whole cluster, then fermented and aged in two parts: half in 500L used French Oak barrels and half in stainless steel tanks. After 8 months of aging on the lees, the wine was blended and bottled without fining or filtering and without any added SO2.
Pairing: Take-out from El Parche
Fun fact: Xarel-lo is usually used as a grape for sparkling wine, being one of the noble varieties of Cava.
Cantalapiedra
Lirando
Verdejo
Rueda
The gentle, rolling hills of Rueda are the ancestral home of the noble Verdejo grape. Prized for its firm structure, complexity, and ability to transmit the limestone minerality of the Rueda soils, Verdejo produces one of Spain’s most distinctive white wines…as long as it is farmed well and carefully vinified. Unfortunately in the last decade, producers large and small have adopted a very modern vision of Rueda, with the intention of producing white wines geared toward the international market. Enter the family Cantalapiedra: Verdejo’s vanguards working in Rueda.
Manuel Cantalapiedra, inspired by the potential of the Verdejo grape and the old vineyards that the family works with, has focused on bottling of small parcels that highlight the unique heritage of Rueda and Toro. Simultaneously, Manuel has followed his own vision for Verdejo, Tempranillo, and Grenache in the area around La Seca.
Lirondo is 100% Verdejo from organically farmed vinesold vines. The vines are planted on sandy clay soil with abundant pebbles over marl and limestone. The wine is aged on the lees for ~6 months in stainless steel tanks and it is bottled without fining, filtering, or sulfur addition.
Pairing: Grilled Fish With Pimentón Aioli
Fun fact: Trained as a classical pianist, Manuel has brought an exacting and artistic approach to the Cantalapiedra cellar.
LA Closerie du Loup
Racines
Tannat & Cabernet
Adrian
La Closerie du Loup is the project of Julie Batard. I met Julie in France in February and instantly fell in the love with her wines and just her outlook on life. She started the domaine in 2020 when she took over the small vineyard planted by her parents in the Madiran AOC.
The 6.5 hectares are planted to Tannat, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon and the vines are just over 40 years old. The farming is organic, which is unheard of in the region. The farming is focused on living soils, biodiversity, and overall sustainability. Cover crops are encouraged and grass under the vines is managed by hand or sheep to avoid soil compaction and diesel usage. Manure, compost, and mulch are used in lieu of chemical fertilizers.
In the winery, the goal is to limit inputs and interventions as much as possible. Native yeast is used for fermentation in stainless steel. Sulfur is added in small doses once before bottling, but some CO2 is left in the wine to reduce the need for sulfur.
At every step, each action taken is considered and deliberate. The goal is always to respect the living environment, reduce environmental impact, and produce high quality wines.
Pairing: Haitian Pork Griot
Fun fact: If you can remember every single grape this estate grows you a probably a Master of Wine.