Nice: May 2025
Cantina Favaro
Erbaluce
Piedmont
Benito Favaro and his sons, Camillo and Nicola, are masters of Erbaluce, one of the most traditional white wines native to Piedmont. Rarely am I taken aback by a new wine, and Favaro’s Erbaluce utterly floored me. Reminiscent of white Burgundy and German dry Riesling, what more could you ask for?
The Favaro family are true garagistes, crafting their wines under their home in a subterranean cellar just next to their vineyards. They work organically in the vines, and all their efforts support coaxing the maximum expression of their land out of the wine. Green harvesting, carefully working the soils, and an ancient pergola system maximize the quality they obtain. Their expression of Erbaluce is a benchmark for the appellation, and these white wines are capable of aging beautifully. The tiny bit of Nebbiolo and Freisa produced here are also extremely special wines, as elegant and aromatic as anything made elsewhere in Piemonte.
Pairing: Pad Woon Sen
Fun fact: “Erbaluce” is derived from the local legend of the fairy “Albaluce” who is said to have blessed the region with this prolific white grape.
MAdson
Pinot Noir
California
I have been wanting y’all to experience the world of Pinot Noir the last few months, and I thought we should taste one of the best up-and-coming American Pinot producers, and one of my favorites: Madson.
This Pinot Noir is a blend from many small vineyards that Madson farms around the Santa Cruz Mountains. These small vineyards are all grown among the redwoods, influenced by the cool Monterey Bay and planted on various types of decomposed sandstone. These vineyards showcase a uniqueness and a depth in the wines that they produce.
Cole Thomas, the winemaker, knocked it out of the park. This Pinot Noir is a beautiful expression of the cool coastal terroir of the Santa Cruz Mountains - earthy and savory, with notes of raspberry bramble, black cherry, and citrus. This wine has immense depth and richness in the middle palate, finishing with chalky minerality and delicate tannins.
Pairing: Sheet-Pan Japchae
Fun fact: Madson is Chris’ paternal grandmother’s maiden name. Originating in Denmark, she came US in search of opportunity and a better life and thus he decided to name the winery after her.
Fantino
Nebbiolo
Piedmont
May is meant for baby Barolo, I have always said.
Two brothers, Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino, run this family estate in Monforte d’Alba. Alessandro managed the vineyards and served as the enologist at Cantina Bartolo Mascarello for 20 years, from 1978 to 1997. Since 1998, he has dedicated himself to running his family estate alongside his brother full-time.
The brothers farm eight hectares in the heart of the historic Bussia cru north of Monforte, one of Barolo’s most famous areas for producing wines of great longevity and finesse. The Fantino holdings are concentrated exclusively in the “Dardi” section of Bussia, a hillside with perfect southern and southeastern exposure in the geographic center of Bussia.
The Rosso is playful, fruit-driven, fresh, and aromatic. Hailing from the West facing vineyards in Busia, this wine is popable Barolo in all but name.
Pairing: Grilled Meats! (it’s that time of year again!
Fun fact: The Fantino brothers play backgammon every evening.