Nice: June 2025
FX Pichler
Klostersatz Riesling
Austria
Founded in Oberloiben in 1898, the Pichler estate has developed a reputation as a Grüner Veltliner specialist since Franz Pichler Sr began selecting his own clones in 1928.
Franz Xaver (FX) took over at the estate in 1971 and his meticulous approach earned him plaudits on both the domestic and international stage. Franz Xaver’s son Lucas joined the winery team in 1996, taking over winemaking at the estate in 1999 and assuming management of the whole estate in 2009. Lucas manages the winery together with his wife Johanna, representing the 5th generation to farm these lands. Today, FX Pichler owns 20 hectares of vineyards, almost half of which are planted on steep terraces and worked entirely by hand. The aim is always to create wines that are a true reflection of the year, the soil and the special microclimate of the Wachau. The fine nuances of each respective site should be perceptible and tangible in their multi-layered uniqueness. The winery left the Vinea Wachau as of the 2020 vintage, thus dropping the use of the Federspiel and Smaragd term. Though they have always been farming organically, they started the process to certification in 2021.
Pairing: Grilled Bone-In Rib-Eye Steaks With Blue Cheese
Fun fact: The estate was once described by Robert Parker as the “Château Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau”.
Lopez de Heredia
Vina Gravonia 2016
Rioja, Spain
Lopez de Heredia - one of the most venerable producers in Spain– produces traditional, age-worthy Rioja. Their wines are legendary and still made the way they were when the winery was founded over 130 years ago. Following a tradition that has been passed down through generations, their wines are released at least 5-10 years after harvest, which provides added complexity and elegance to their Crianzas and Gran Reservas.
A rarity in Rioja, Lopez de Heredia uses only estate bottled fruit from their prized vineyards- Tondonia, Cubillo, Bosconia, and Zaconia- with the idea that the only way to get the best fruit is to care for the vines themselves. The Tondonia vineyard is their most famous; over 100 hectares, it is situated in a shell-shaped depression on the right bank of the river Ebro, where the most typical Rioja wines are grown. The soil is alluvial clay with a high proportion of limestone. Average vine age is 45 years old and organic farming and natural fermentations are implemented, creating wines that exhibit great terroir. Grapes from Viña Tondonia are always used in making their highest quality wines, with truly exceptional vintages becoming Gran Reservas. The first Reserva was bottled by the founder in 1890; a few bottles of this are still kept in the family wine museum.
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Pairing: Grilled Fish With Pimentón Aioli
Lopez de Heredia
Vina Cubillo 2016
Rioja, Spain
I wanted to be able to give you guys some aged wine that is ready to drink. 2016 was a cool year in Rioja and I think both of these wines show more elegance and balance compared to hot vintages.
The white, Gravonia, is hard to come by in the states, and man are we lucky. Rich yet showing great acid, this wine just goes to show that wine wine can ages as well as red.
Cubillo, is the Crianza from the estate, meaning the youngest wine, yet by most Rioja houses would be released as a Gran Reserva (oldest wine.) Silky, sexy, yet very food friendly, drink now or continue aging!
Pairing: Sweet and Sour Cauliflower
Fun fact: Lopez uses the oldest barrels arguably in the world, some of the red wine barrels uses are 170 years old!